Bucking the AOC

Some winemakers in France, not happy with the limitations of the appellation d'origine controlee regulatory scheme (under which winemakers can obtain the right to use regional labels like Bordeaux or Burgundy) and contending that the system counters the free development of wine by rewarding and enforcing uniformity, are finding it hard to buck the system.

Article on L.A. Times.

#30 - Chambourcin

Varietal: Chambourcin
Wine: Chambourcin
Label: Fabbioli Cellars
Region: Virginia
Year: 2009
Date Tasted: December 2011

Notes:
This excellent wine from a hybrid grape, courtesy of friends Caleb & Jen, presents as a full bodied dry red. The flavor is full and varied, beginning with a dry merlot-like flavor that adds in notes of nutmeg and rum. The finish is smooth and thoughtful and keeps you reaching back for the glass, after an appropriate appreciative pause.

It paired very nicely with an excellent slow marinaded steak grilled under Caleb's careful tutelage.

2008 Cono Sur Pinot Noir

Varietal: Pinot Noir
Wine: Pinot Noir
Label: Cono Sur "Bicycle"
Region: Chile
Year: 2008
Date Tasted: April 2011

Notes:
I ran across an old set of notes I had jotted down at a friend's house. Rather than add to them at the risk of memory errors, I leave them largely as is:

Very light body, lightly dry,
Tastes of raspberry, blueberry, touch of sweet lemon,
Full fruitiness, very pleasant
Paired well with canapes based around a reduction of balsamic vinegar and shaved salmon

Elk Run Sweet Katherine

Varietal: >50% Cabernet Sauvignon , other mix unlisted
Wine: Sweet Katherine
Label: Elk Run
Region: Maryland
Year: 2007? (Not labeled)
Date Tasted: July 2011

Notes: What sacrilege is this, making a sweet wine from the might Cab? Tasty, tasty sacrilege. I am fairly certain this is the fullest bodied dessert red I have ever had. Tones of blackberry, cherry, and tangerine. A slightly dry finish, showing the weight and presence the varietal meant to have.

As the story was told by the vineyard staff, the Sweet Katherine was accidentally created when fermentation stopped early, and rather than flush the disaster they decided to bottle it and see what would happen. (Operating a small vineyard does not bestow a high profit margin, so the decision is understandable.) Several years later, they now intentionally produce this moderately sweet red, which has the attraction of being (far) outside the reach of the truly awful plebeian sweet wines, but different from the traditional fine dessert wines.

Although it may do well with a tailored meal or in a didactic capacity, this wine seems most suited to pairing with desserts that are less than very sweet - chocolate, cannoli, and most other pastries seem perfect; sherbert or a sheet cake, less so.

#29 - Verdejo

Varietal: Verdejo
Wine: Verdejo
Label: Paso a Paso
Region: La Mancha, Spain
Year: 2008
Date Tasted: June 2011*

Notes: This medium bodied white has a surprisingly mild dryness. As it has a little age behind it, the acidity though present is very muted. I caught flavors of apple and cantaloupe, and it finishes with quiet complexity.

All around, this is one of the more interesting wines I have had. It is comparable to chardonnay (and could be used most places that varietal is), but a bit more cheerful. For those who don't prefer their whites shockingly dry (or if you don't know your guests' preferences), this is a good dinner wine, and its gentle but firm presence makes for a very versatile beverage. We enjoyed it with a chicken and shrimp alfredo, but it could be paired with most foods that make you think of summer.


*Yes, shortly before the birth, under the theory that by that point, the bun in the oven has already been baked, it is just keeping warm.

Long overdue update

I have left this blog silent for a while. About nine months, actually. We hope to be back to reviewing and pushing up our century club goal soon.

For now, though, I leave you with a headline:
$1m of Shiraz destroyed in Australia container lift accident.